Naturally talented: France’s new categorisation will give natural wines a boost | David Williams

The official sanctioning of Vin Méthode Natural is a boon for those who prefer additive-free wines. But there are already plenty worth trying Pierre Frick Chasselas Sans Souffre, Alsace, France 2017 (from £18.50, etonvintners.com ; forestwines.com ; lescaves.co.uk ) The rise of natural wine has been the most divisive development in wine in recent years. Part of the problem has been that, while most wine lovers know a natural wine when they see (or taste) one (and whether they like it or not), a legal definition of what natural wine actually is has been lacking. That’s allowed a fair bit of strawmanning on the part of natural wine’s critics, who’ve tended to seek out the worst examples (and the lax winemaking used to produce them) to generalise about the movement en masse. The announcement in March of a new officially sanctioned (by French wine authorities) category, Vin Méthode Natural, that can be used on labels by French natural wine producers who conform to a set of practices, should at least lead to more